On April 7 in Hong Kong, the Cartier Collection acquired at auction a
spectacular necklace comprised of 27 jadeite beads of extremely rare quality
and dimensions (from
15.4 to 19.2 mm). The price of $27.44 million represented a new world record
for a jadeite jewel. The interest surrounding this acquisition attests to the
international recognition of Cartier creations’ patrimonial value and their high desirability at auctions.
The origin of these
brilliant green jade beads of beautiful translucency, in strikingly perfect
shapes carved from the same boulder, remains a mystery. It is possible they
were cut in the 18th century. The necklace made its public debut in
1933 at the marriage of Barbara Hutton (1912-1979) and Prince Alexis Mdivani,
as a wedding gift from the father of the young bride, Franklyn Laws Hutton. The
clasp of the necklace was then adorned with a navette-cut diamond, crafted by
Cartier.
Barbara Hutton was
passionate about jade and, on the advice of leading experts in the stone,
commissioned from Cartier in 1934 the current clasp, which is set with yellow
gold, calibré-cut rubies and baguette-cut diamonds that enhance the deep green
hue of the gems. On the same date, she also commissioned from Cartier a jade,
ruby and diamond ring to match the necklace, which today forms part of the
Cartier Collection.
When she came of age,
Barbara Hutton, granddaughter of the founder of the Woolworth stores, inherited
one of America’s greatest fortunes. Before long, she became known for her bold
and sophisticated taste in contemporary jewellery and historical pieces. In the
course of her lifetime, she amassed one of the most stunning collections of
jewellery; highlights included the dazzling Pasha diamond mounted as a ring by
Cartier, the Marie-Antoinette pearl necklace and the Romanov emeralds, acquired
at Cartier, where they were mounted on a necklace that transformed into a
tiara.
Her rival style icons and
jewellery collectors were Daisy Fellowes and Wallis Simpson, better known as
the Duchess of Windsor, who were also devoted Cartier clients. Nonetheless she
imposed her own distinctive taste, preferring a Tiger to the iconic Cartier
Panther in a set of yellow-diamond earrings and a brooch which is in the
CartierCollection today.
The necklace attests to
Cartier’s pioneering interest in Chinese culture and jade at the beginning of
the 20th century. In boldly pairing contrasting colours of green and
red, Cartier created a modern interpretation of a precious gem that has been
revered since the dawn of time.
The Cartier Collection
boasts some 1,500 pieces. It has been exhibited to date in 27 museums around the
globe, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York; the British Museum
in London; the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation in Lisbon; the Kremlin Museums in
Moscow; the Palace Museum in the Forbidden City in Beijing, and, last winter,
the Grand Palais in Paris. The
Collection will continue to tour the
world, hosted by the most prestigious cultural institutions.
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